One of the most important parts of framing walls is getting
the rough openings right. Items that determine what the
height of One of the most important parts of framing walls is getting
the rough openings right. Items that determine what the
height of your opening will be are floor finishes and the
use of underlayment. Door widths will stay constant with the
size of a standard door.
In new construction most doors are hung after the floors are
installed. This allows flooring contractors (tile, hardwood,
vinyl, laminate) to lay their flooring products without
making tricky cuts around door jambs. It also makes for a
neat and clean door installation. Exceptions to this are
carpeted floors. Doors are hung before the carpeting is
laid. When doors are hung in carpeted areas, its a good idea
to shim them up 1/2″, putting a shim under each jamb leg.
This eliminates the need to cut the doors down after the
carpet is installed.
For a 6′ 8″ high door (80 inches) I like to frame my rough
opening height at 82 3/4″. This allows room for all the
situations mentioned above. If your header material is a
double 2×12, holding it to the top plate will give you that
height.
Rough openings for door widths are pretty much standard. The
rough opening width is 2 inches wider than the door itself.
this allows room for the door jambs which are usually 3/4″
thick. This gives you approximately 1/2″ of play and shim
room when installing a prehung door. For a 36″ door (3′ 0″)
the rough opening width would be 38″. Here are the most
common door sizes and their rough openings.
Door Size Rough Opening Size
2′ 0″ x 6′8″ -26″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 2″ x 6′8″ -28″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 4″ x 6′8″ -30″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 6″ x 6′8″ -32″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 8″ x 6′8″ -34″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 10″x 6′8″ -36″ x 82 3/4″
3′ 0″ x 6′8″ -38″ x 82 3/4″
To figure the rough opening for double doors or french
doors, take the door size times 2 and add 2″. The most
common sizes for exterior doors are the 2′8″ and the 3′0″
doors. The 2′8″ is usually used for the back door and the
access door from the garage. That size door for exterior use
is being used less these days because of the size of
appliances and furniture. Exterior doors with sidelights and
sliding patio doors rough openings vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. These should be verified and gotten from the
supplier.
Getting the rough openings right the first time keeps the
sawzall in its carrying case and having to change the
opening after the walls are drywalled and painted.
Mike Merisko (c) 2006
http://www.sawkerfs.com
Resortspa Knee Injury
February 22, 2012
With the popularity of the recent Disney Pixar Cars movie, chances are that your little boy is wanting Lightning McQueen, Mater, and all their friends to now grace every surface of his bedroom. Decorating a room with a Disney Cars room décor is fairly easy and inexpensive. Merchandise is available all over the web and if you are lucky, you may also find an item or two in the stores. Because of the popularity of the movie, all Cars merchandise has been extremely popular so I have learned that when you find an item you want that isn’t sold out, you have to move quickly and buy it.
So what is available for decorating a Disney Cars theme room? Well first, you will have you choice of a couple of beds. A Disney Cars toddler bed is available as is a Lightning McQueen Race Car bed that comes in a twin size. You will also be able to find Disney Cars toddler bedding and twin size bedding sets.
It doesn’t stop with just beds and bedding though. The amount of Disney Cars room décor available extends to wall art, room decals, lamps featuring Lightning and Mater, and even dresser knobs featuring many of the movie’s key characters. You will also be able to find Disney Cars furniture pieces including toy boxes and table and chair sets for your Disney Cars theme room.
So if your little boy has been dreaming of a Disney Cars themed bedroom, you will have no trouble coming up with enough Disney Cars room décor to create the Lightning McQueen room of his dreams!
DPL Deep Penetrating Light Telemarketing Business
February 18, 2012
If your windows are ancient and aren’t doing a passable job of keeping the warm air inside your house in cold weather (or keeping it out in warm weather), it might be time to consider having new, energy saving windows put in. But new windows, especially good quality energy saving ones, can be very expensive. As a result, their payback period can be quite long. For the amount of cash you would pay to redo the windows in a single big room, you can get almost the same energy efficiency with some basic weather stripping and by using energy efficient window coverings to eliminate heat transfer between your home and the out of doors.
Let’s first look at how windows help keep the cold out in winter, and the hot air out in summer. Windows block heat transfer in three ways: convection, conduction, and radiation.
Windows eliminate or reduce the convection airflow between the inside and outside, blocking heat from passing through the window along with the airflow. A leaky window, or one with cracked glass or broken putty, allows air through these gaps, so heat gets out in winter, and heat leaks in during the summer.
Even a very thin sheet of glass has some insulating properties, but if the glass is double-glazed and the space between the panes is an inert gas such as argon, the panes provide extra insulating value, which reduces heat transfer through conduction. Conduction is what causes the metal handles of a pot to heat up when you boil water in the pot; so you can guess that a metal window frame, if not properly built, can conduct a lot of heat. While you can’t easily add extra glass sheets to a window, there are other techniques to create additional still air spaces between the window glass and the room, which will add insulation and reduce conduction losses.
Radiation, the third type of heat transfer, usually occurs when light in the infrared spectrum passes through windows, heating the air inside, or when heat inside the room radiates out through the glass. Home energy auditors sometimes take infrared photographs of a home to show where heat losses are most significant, and windows are typically one of the largest sources of heat escaping from houses in winter.
How does this knowledge about heat transfer through convection, conduction, and radiation help you cut energy losses through your windows?
The first problem to address is convection. If your windows have cracked panes, get them repaired. If you still have the old wood-framed windows with putty holding the glass in, inspect the pane for any peeling or missing putty. It’s fairly easy to pull old putty out with a putty knife and put a fresh layer of putty on in its place. If the wood of the window itself is broken, or if the glass is hard to get out for replacing, you may not be able to put off getting new windows, but if you can cut the small air leaks, you’ll have gone a long way towards minimizing energy losses and should feel some relief in your utility bills.
You may be surprised to learn how much heat can travel out of a home in cold weather through the wood trim around a window. Just wait for a really cold day, put all the exhaust fans on in your house( kitchen range vent, bathroom exhaust fans, etc.), and run your hand along the edges of window and exterior door trim on the inside of rooms. Anywhere you feel cold air coming in, you have a draft that should be sealed. It won’t hurt to run a thin bead of clear or white caulking around window and door frames to cut this convection heat transfer.
The last thing to try to reduce convection heat transfers is to use tape-on or Zip-Loc type energy saving window kits to seal any windows that are particularly drafty, or windows that really need replacing but that can’t be replaced because of your budget (or because you are renting the place). These kits are a great way to rapidly reduce your heating losses in winter: the kits normally come with several sheets of three by five foot transparent plastic, and a roll of double sided tape. (If you have a large number of windows to cover you can purchase a 48″ roll of the plastic and buy the tape separately.) You measure and cut plastic rectangles slightly wider than the window, run the tape around the window frame, peel off the protective tape from the double sided tape, then set the cut plastic over the window, sealing along the tape line. Blow dry the plastic for five minutes, and it shrinks to form a tight, flat extra pane of ‘glass’ that is hardly unnoticeable. This plastic can hold its taut shape for months, although you may find it needs an occasional short blow dryer blast to pull up the odd wrinkle in the plastic.
The next heat loss you’ll want to address is conduction – heat being conducted through the solid materials of the window. In terms of energy efficient window coverings, your goal here isn’t actually to avoid this conduction – you can’t usually change the materials the window was made of – but to add barrier layers between the window and the room to slow the conduction down. The plastic window insulation kits stop convection heat loss by eliminating drafts into the room, but they also eliminate conduction, by providing a layer of trapped air between the window and the room. A curtain can perform the same task: when closed, the curtain traps a small amount of air between the curtain and the window, so that on a cold day the air behind the curtain naturally gets cold but the room itself stays cozy.
When you install curtains on windows to reduce conduction heat loss, it’s important to think about convection currents inside the living area. Hot air rises, and cold air falls, so if you install curtains you should make sure the air currents are stopped, preferably at both the top and bottom of the curtain. Otherwise, in winter, the cold window will cool the air between the window and the window covering, and that colder air will fall to the floor, pulling warm air from above the window covering down in front of the window in a continuous cycle. In summer, the flow runs the other way, with the air between the curtain and the window warming from sunlight, rising out the top opening, and drawing cool room air up towards the glass where it gets heated.
You should block these air flows by having the curtains flush against the wall at the top and bottom, or by having the bottom touch the floor and by closing in the curtain rod area at the top.
If you have cloth blinds that cover the window, you can use Velcro tabs along the sides of the blinds that you then press into Velcro tape along the window frame; this completely seals the air space between the window and the blind, providing an above average insulation layer. Cloth blinds as well as curtains can use a similar technique but with magnetic tape in the fabric, and metal on the framing, so that the cloth sticks to the walls on either side of and below the opening.
Another way you can try to add an insulation barrier to conduction through the window is to buy cellular blinds, which are made in a cellular or honeycomb cross section, or other blinds that incorporate a hollow space within the blind. Cellular blinds when fully pulled up use almost no space and the cells fold shut; when extended, they can add insulating value to a window from R-2 (for single-cell thickness) to R-5 (for double-cell).
Window blinds can help address the final type of heat transfer, radiation, by preventing heat from radiating through the glass (into the room from sunshine in summer, and towards the outside from the indoor radiant heat in cold weather). The most effective blinds use light, reflective colors on the outside, so that sunlight in summer is more or less completely reflected away from the room. Good window blinds can reflect sufficient solar energy away from a room to reduce heat gain by as much as 45%, but they do very little to the R-value of the window, so have little effect in winter.
Roller shades, which have a wind-up axle and can be pulled up or down (we used to call these blinds when I was young) are a great radiation reflector, and also provide superior insulating value to reduce convection air flows around the window that lead to conduction losses through the glass or window frame. Roller shades, because they are placed so close to the glass, do well at reducing convection currents, especially if their side edges and bottom are attached to the window frame (side tracks are used to accomplish this). Loose-sided shades can reduce heat transfer by up to 28%, while attached-edge shades reduce it up to 45%. Shades that can be reversed, with one side dark and the other light, are even better, because you can use the light side to reflect the heat where you want it (keep it out in hot weather, inside during winter).
Awnings and overhangs are a good way to cut direct light from entering a home and heating it up in summer. Because the solar angle is lower in the winter, such window coverings only block the sunlight you don’t want, allowing the lower-angled winter sun in to help heat your home.
Storm windows – which were added to many older homes – can be up to 50% more energy efficient than single-pane windows, provided the storms are properly sealed against air leakage. So if you have old wooden-framed storms sitting around in your basement or garage, you should put them on each fall and take them down once winter has passed. If you have aluminum framed storms you can typically leave them up year round; just don’t forget to slide the glass sash shut when autumn comes.
Windows form such a small percentage of the surface area of a house, yet they are one of the biggest potential sources of energy waste in a house being heated or air conditioned. So you should strive to do anything you can to restrict heat transfer through convection, conduction, and radiation. Just remember to set aside a portion of the money you save on reduced utility bills, so you can replace any old, energy wasting windows with brand new, energy efficient ones when the time comes.
Incar
February 17, 2012
When it comes time to get new flooring you can save money by removing the old flooring yourself but if you have old linoleum on your floors you might be in for quite a challenge. Depending on how old the linoleum is and the type of adhesive that was used it can be extremely difficult to get up.
First of all, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to just remove the linoleum and adhesive all at once. The surface under the linoleum and the damage you might cause it needs to be considered – especially if that surface is wood. Concrete floors can take a lot more in the way of rough treatment. The type of scraper you use has a lot to do with your success as well as the damage to the floor underneath. Many people use paint scrapers but those with a razor blade are usually more efficient. Be prepared to break some blades it if the adhesive is hard, and you’re working on concrete.
Try cutting the linoleum into strips or sections instead of removing the whole chunk at once. This will make it easier to get an edge to pry up. Of course, the linoleum probably won’t come up in nice neat sections so be prepared to deal with a lot of left over backing and glue that is still attached to your floor.
One way to deal with those remnants that just won’t come up is to apply some kind of solvent or remover. A popular brand is Krud Kutter, which appears to work very well from the customer feedback comments. Follow directions on the label of whatever product you employ, and wear gloves to protect your hands. Do a small section at a time, and then move to the next one.
Another technique is to use boiling water and pour it directly on the backing and adhesive. Let it soak and then scrape up. If you don’t want to use water, you can try to heat up the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun. Pick a very inconspicuous area, such as behind a door, to try it. Heat the adhesive with the hair dryer and scrape it up with a straight-blade scraper (like a stiff putty knife with a beveled edge). Move the scraper in the direction of the grain of the wood if you are uncovering a hardwood floor. Have a pan or some other container handy to drop the scrapings into – one that is unlikely to either melt or ignite when coming in contact with hot materials. Be very careful if you are using a heat gun as this can easily damage the floor underneath if it is wood.
If worse comes to worse and you are left with some stubborn adhesive on the floors, it might be time to sand. Of course, if your floors are wood and you plan to refinish them you would need to sand anyway, but during this step you must be careful not to damage the particular area by keeping the sander on it for too long.
Once you finally get the linoleum and all traces of adhesive up, you are ready to seal the floor as recommended for the type of flooring and apply the new floor as recommended!
Cardiovascular Exercise Wine Refrigerator
February 16, 2012
The stair railing at home is more than a simple way to get from a floor to another. You can create an extension of your personal likes in decoration, with ornamental parts of wood, iron and other material easy to install that will increase the value of your home at the same time. If you think that the stair railing is one of the first tings that people see when they come in, you should think as well that, for building a new staircase or just a new remodelling, ask always for the advice and good service of a qualified person who will give you some good ideas for.
When something never goes out of style is unique. Choose wood stairs.
Nowadays there a wide variety of materials to build a stair railing. Long time ago and still today….houses had stairs wood railings, as wood is a nice material to work with. Especially beautiful are which are made of oak wood… with wonderful red colour and knocks that are unmistakable. The star of the house will be an oak wood balustrade, without any doubt. If we try to match the colour of the stairs with the wood flooring it will give beauty elegance to our homes. Although it can be a difficult task due to the many stair parts that we need to have in account to choose…like balusters, handrails, treads, and ornamental trim pieces.
On a staircase the first part we notice is the railing. It has its important use, one is to provide security for going up and down the stairs, and the other is to hold up the balustrade of the staircase. These elements must be kept in mind when the staircase is going to have a railing design. Unique, are wood railings. They are charm, grace, and soft, the perfect end for your house, improving the look of it and of course increasing the value of it. They are durable and strong. Wood is the choice that never goes out of style.
Oak wood, elegance and charm to your home.
The oak wood is generally used to build the stairs traditional commercial buildings such as libraries, office buildings and houses. It gives charm and elegance to any room whit its unmistakeable smooth and warm colour. If you think that metal railings can improve and give more style to your staircase, use it. They have many decorative options and display themselves beautifully. Lots luxury and high homes are decorated with iron railings. They display grace, elegance and a special luxury. A style that nowadays is being used in most of the modern buildings all around the world. Iron railings are used for many residential and commercial staircases. They offer as which are made of wood, safety and functionality. Iron decorates your home. They have a wide variety of design, assuring that you will find a special one for display at home. The metal stair railing fit in any environment. What you need is just the good advice and work of a qualified person.
Is not an easy task but the results will give you satisfaction.
Making stairs can be very complicated. First priority in this type of project is to make it safe and functional. After it comes style. A few things, the rise between treads, the number of treads and the total run of the steps, the horizontal distance between bottom and the top of the stairs. Following these steps will assist you in creating a successful staircase. Be creative. Your inner spirit will help you on the creation of your stairs. Lots of styles, modern, traditional or contemporary. Spirit and design to have a work of art at home.
Development Business
February 13, 2012
This past weekend I lost my voice. I wasn’t sick. Rather, I experienced “severe voice strain” from yelling quite loudly and in a panic-stricken manner at our two large dogs, who were having a violent fight over a tennis ball.
At first I was just yelling to try to get their attention and make them stop trying to rip each other’s throats out. But when I saw blood, my yelling became louder, more hysterical, and high pitched as I envisioned a new episode of MTV’s “Celebrity Death Match” between my two beloved pets.
My husband finally heard my cries of distress and, being the TRUE alpha dog in this house, got between the dogs and broke up the fight.
But the damage was done. Evidently, sustaining that volume of shrieking for more than 15 seconds can damage one’s vocal cords. Who knew?
For those of you who know me well, this was a catastrophic event. It was similar in catastrophicity to a concert pianist breaking all of her fingers, or a professional golfer ruining his favorite plaid pants.
My voice is my instrument. I am a talker by vocation, and rarely a moment goes by when I don’t exercise my gift. I even talk in my sleep! So waking up on Saturday morning with absolutely NO VOICE was no small matter. It was HUGE!
Yes, yes, for my husband it was a blessing, for which he still hasn’t stopped thanking God (even as my voice begins to return). And yes, of course, it afforded me a unique opportunity to practice the highly overrated “art of listening.”
All of that is true. But for the most part, it was just an enormous pain in the arse. However, I decided to make the best of things, as I am wont to do, and in the process I learned a few important lessons.
For instance, on an ironic but unimportant note, when people find out that you can’t speak, they tend to SHOUT at you. And you, unable to speak, are thus rendered unable to remind them that you aren’t deaf, nor can you ask them to turn down the volume a bit. Fascinating phenomenon, and quite annoying. All you can do is smile and stick your fingers in your ears.
And if you try to whisper something to someone out of dire need (which I later found out was a no-no ~ whispering evidently strains the voice more than talking) then people have an overwhelming desire to whisper back to you. It’s contagious. And kind of funny. Try it sometime.
One benefit of losing one’s voice and only being able to speak in a whisper is that everyone stops and pays close attention to you, something I’m not used to even at the best of times. Even when I had nothing particularly important to say, I could bring an important, deep, spiritual conversation to a complete halt by mouthing something to someone.
ME: xxxxx xxxx xxxx
BOB: Shhhhhh! SHE SPEAKS! SHE’S TRYING TO SPEAK! WHAT WAS THAT? TRY AGAIN!
ME: I like bacon.
Most importantly (and painfully) I discovered that while people would never publicly ridicule a lame, deaf or blind person, temporary mutes are evidently fair game. In other words, it’s politically correct to mock and ridicule a person who has lost the ability to speak.
I was repeatedly and sniggeringly asked to “speak up” by friends and colleagues who were well aware of my predicament, and yelled at by the teenaged drive-through worker at a local fast food establishment.
Okay, I’ll give you that one. What was I doing in a Fast Food Drive-Thru? Well, believe it or not, before I remembered that I couldn’t speak, I got myself boxed in by other cars in front of the ordering box (one car in back of me, a line in front of me).
BOX: MAY I HAVE YOUR ORDER PLEASE?
ME: I’ll have a xxxx with a xxxx, no xxxx, and a xxxx, hold the xxxx.
BOX: WHAT????
ME: I’ll have a xxxx with a xxxx, no xxxx, and a xxxx, hold the xxxx.
BOX: I CAN’T HEAR YOU! CAN YOU PLEASE SPEAK UP!?
ME: I lost my xxxxx and I can’t xxxxx. I’m so xxxxx.
BOX:
Much to my embarrassment, a 16 year old with acne and a paper hat came out of the back door of the place to see what the problem was. By now the line in front of me is all but gone, and the people behind me are glaring and wishing me dead, but it’s too late for me to sneak away.
KID: Ma’am is there a problem?
ME: YES! I lost my xxxxx and can’t xxxxx xxxxx for you xx hear xx.
KID: What???
ME: I — lost — my — voice — and — can’t — talk — any — louder.
KID: YOU LOST YOUR VOICE?
ME:
KID: AND SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH YOUR NOSE??
ME: I — lost — my — voice ….
KID: YOU LOST YOUR VOICE AND YOU ARE TRYING TO ORDER FOOD IN A DRIVE THRU.
ME:
KID: OKAY, MA’AM, CAN YOU PLEASE PULL OVER TO THE SIDE AND LET THESE OTHER, SPEAKING PEOPLE, CONTINUE ON THROUGH THE LINE AND WE’LL TAKE CARE OF YOU OVER THERE.
I can’t speak, and he’s already directing the huge traffic jam behind me like he’s landing flights on the deck of an aircraft carrier ~ so I can’t explain to the little Nazi that I made a mistake, that I got stuck in the line before I remembered I couldn’t talk. I can’t tell him that I’ll just leave and eat a peanut butter and jelly sandwich at home wallowing in my shame.
No, I am stuck now, pulling over to the side of the line where the people who have the nerve to order enough food for an entire soccer team are banished, and where, much to my further embarrassment, the manager (a 19 year old with acne and a paper hat) walks purposefully over to my car with one of those plastic picture-menus they use with people who can’t read.
I dejectedly point at symbol for the burger with cheese, and then make a stab at a large Coke. The manager SHOUTS the order back at me to confirm it, I nod grimly, and then he SHOUTS how much I owe him.
He returns a few minutes later with my food, and all but pats me on the head before he walks back to rule his kingdom of speaking people.
Food Standard Noise Headphones Mascara
February 10, 2012
To answer the nagging question that so many bay window owners have, namely “How do I treat a bay window?” let’s first take a look at what a bay window is and what that means to you the homeowner. A bay window is a recessed window with angled sections. So in essence it is like one large window, with two smaller angled windows on either side. For many, especially those with an outstanding view and with privacy and light control this should not be a concern because it is a great window to leave uncovered. Unfortunately most bay windows do not have fabulous views and plenty of privacy. Most bay windows require window treatments such as bay window curtains.
Each bay window is going to have a unique set of circumstances that will dictate what type of bay window curtain or treatment should be used. So, let’s take a look at a few of these:
If your bay window has unique features, or maybe features handsome window frames, etc. consider playing them up with individual, inside-mounted cafe curtains, shades, or blinds. Roman shades with contrast banding are tailored and traditional.
For closely spaced windows, try a simple set of shades or blinds, and add a continuous valance or a series of shallow swags. If you can plan carefully, your bay window curtains will look lovely whether your blinds are up or down. If you should use a valance, plan so the top treatment conceals the under treatments when they’re raised.
For many bay windows, you will want to use rod-pocket curtains or curtains on rings. If you have rod-pocket curtains and curtains on rings you should know that they may require a hinged, flexible, or custom-bent rod to fit your window properly.
If your bay windows are not closely spaced, and if there is enough space in between, hang a stationary panel between windows and at each outer window. For a bay window with little space between windows, flank the entire window area with a pair of panels and top the treatment with a cornice. This will give you the best looking results for whatever bay window you have.
Despite the stigma, finding the perfect window curtains for covering the bay windows in your home is easier than you think. You do not have to spend a whole lot of money to get bay window curtains that fit your needs. Affordable bay window curtains are available in various solid colors, print fabrics, and also in a huge selection of materials. You are not limited to one or two choices. You can also skip bay window curtains altogether and simply treat your bay windows with blinds and a window topper such as a valance or cornice. When it comes to bay window curtains you can choose from a variety of styles including… Pinch Pleated Drapes, Insulated Drapery Panels with foam backing, Tab Top Drapes, Velvet Drapes, simple valances, detailed cornices and more! And why not use a little of everything, for bay window curtains and drapes you can usually find bother the drapes and a coordinating valance top.
Have fun with your bay window curtains, and do not let the size or shape be an obstacle, rather make it a fun design challenge.
Earhead Phones Hotels The Lynnwood
February 8, 2012
Plexiglass is a lightweight transparent plastic that is sometimes used for windows. It’s thermoplastic, resistant to weather as it can withstand both the heat and cold. People ask can plexiglass be used for house windows and the answer is yes.
This glass type is another option if you are either replacing your windows or building a new home. Being made of plastic they are very lightweight and easier than glass to handle. They can withstand pretty much heavy extremes of weather. In addition, they seem to be sturdier than its glass counterpart in many ways and can withstand a blow better than glass.
It can be bought in hardware stores and home improvement centers or even on the internet. If you are buying a plexiglass package for windows you will get a piece for the window, four pieces for the frame and enough washers, screws and threaded sleeves to put it together along with simple, easy to understand instructions.
Even though this is a sturdy material it should be handled with some care because it can still be broken. Be careful not to damage it before you get it installed. As usual know your measurements. If the windows are large get help in installing them.
These windows are easy to clean but again some care should be taken. Use warm water and a soft cloth to clean them. Never use ammonia or anything with ammonia in it.
Of course there are many different rationales that can be provided to answer the question, can plexiglass be used for house windows, however I do hope this article has answered some of your question.
Coupe Deville
February 6, 2012
Many people don’t realize how important it is to install security devices on their RV or motor home. Think about it just for a second- which makes a better target for thieves, an older-model car, or an expensive-looking motor home stocked with electronics, jewelry, and other high-value possessions? For a criminal, the choice is easy. How can you protect your RV from the range of security threats that may befall it?
First, install door and window alarms on all access points to the RV. These alarms will let off a loud beep when they are opened without first disarming them. This will quickly alert you to anyone trying to break in.
Although many people keep their RV near their home, others opt to keep it in a storage facility when not in use. Always investigate the security offered by the facility. Are identities checked before people are allowed to enter the storage area? Are there security officers who routinely patrol the RV storage area? For the best security, look for secure storage surrounded by high fences and protected with security cameras, bright security lights, and a gate that is passcode-protected.
RV security doesn’t stop when you leave home. While traveling in your RV, there are additional security precautions to consider. Be very cautious where you choose to park your RV. Avoid staying overnight at rest stops, which tend to be deserted, making them an attractive place for criminals. If you stop at a rest stop, make it a short break during daylight hours. Lock the RV, even though you aren’t going very far from it, and always leave someone in or close to the RV. Don’t open the RV door for everyone, even if they are wearing an official-looking uniform.
Many RV travelers make the mistake of leaving their RV unlocked, and even the keys in the ignition and their wallet in the center console, when they get out at a gas station or rest stop. Remember, an RV is even less secure than your regular car because it is so attractive to thieves. Get in the habit of locking the door anytime you leave the RV.
This same principle applies to the RV when you have reached your destination. Whether you’re in a deserted campground or a large RV park, everyone is a stranger. Your neighbors won’t look twice at a stranger entering your RV, because they have no idea who belongs there and who doesn’t. Whenever possible, travel in groups so that you’ll have more people around to keep an eye on your RV and your belongings.
Even if your RV doors are locked and you don’t see anyone suspicious around, keep the curtains or blinds closed, and all valuables out of sight. When you’re camping, it’s all too easy to leave your jewelry sitting on a counter in the RV, the door unlocked, and the window wide open. As much as we like to believe that campgrounds are 100% safe and secure, this is not a good idea. The same goes for any camping equipment that people often leave lying around outside their RV. These should all be kept inside the RV, with all doors to storage locked and alarmed.
Although RVs are statistically safer than a house or apartment, this doesn’t mean that they are immune from the threat of break-ins. An RV typically has no security devices installed except for the lock on the door, which is all too often left unlocked. Consider these safety precautions whether traveling in your RV or storing it over the winter months.
Long Termparking In School Student Loan Consolidation
February 4, 2012
When you buy your first house, enclosed blinds might not be at the top of your list of most important things to purchase. However, after a few days of no privacy and bright sunlight, you’ll start to understand how great enclosed blinds can be.
What are Enclosed Blinds?
Enclosed blinds are more upscale and less frustrating than mini-blinds. Unlike mini-blinds, they sit between two pieces of glass so they’re not exposed. Mini-blinds are the most common blinds out there. They’re very popular in apartment buildings and rental houses because they’re cheap. Mini-blinds are plastic. They’re opened with a long chord that frequently gets tangled up. The shutters are opened by turning a rod.
Enclosed blinds are much more user friendly, they last longer, they don’t need to be dusted and they’re more decorative than mini-blinds. These blinds fit the windows more snuggly because they sit between two layers of glass. They can be opened, closed and tinted by using a tab on the frame. This eliminates all tangled strings.
Because the blinds are placed between glass, they can’t get caught in the door or window and they don’t get tangled. This is an especially nice feature in high traffic areas of the home. Enclosed blinds attach to an aluminum frame and are most commonly used on doors.
Advantages of Enclosed Blinds
Enclosed blinds share the same benefits as vinyl mini-blinds. They keep out sunlight, which in turn keeps your house cooler. They also give you privacy. Unlike mini-blinds, enclosed blinds don’t need to be dusted because they’re never exposed to dust. Instead, they sit safely between two pieces of glass.
Finding Enclosed Blinds
You can find enclosed blinds in a variety of different places. Home improvement stores such as Home Depot and Lowes carry enclosed blinds. These places will install your enclosed blinds for a fee. Many enclosed blind buyers install their own blinds because it’s a relatively simple process.
Enclosed blinds come in all different colors and can be made to custom fit unusual doors. Before you go shopping for your blinds, measure your door window. You need to measure the height and the width of the door measuring from the center of the screw holes. Your salesperson should be able to tell you if you need custom blinds.
Enclosed blinds are more expensive than mini-blinds. For a full-length door, enclosed blinds cost more than $200. You can find them for about $70 for a door that has a half-piece of glass. This may be expensive, but keep in mind that you’ll only need enclosed blinds for doors. You don’t have to get them for every outside door in the house, just the high traffic areas. If your family never uses the patio door, you don’t need enclosed blinds for the patio. You really only need enclosed blinds for the doors that are most commonly used.
Sealy Mattress Top Schools Gazebo
February 3, 2012
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